Now at last we got to step foot onto the continent itself. To the south of the Lemaire Channel is Mt Scott. We were deposited on the rocks below a steep snow slope, to the right of which was a high rocky pinnacle which occasionally threw rocks down, and to the left was a steep ice fall as a glacier flowed into the sea. To the north of this was an 800m cliff.
Immediately off the shore a rope was fixed as we climbed in crampons to a snow ledge at a craggy wall, and then we traversed left on another fixed rope until the angle eased. I felt it was a little too steep and icy for skis so continued to go straight up on crampons, enjoying the exposure but as we navigated back and forth through some crevasses, I remember why I had had a hiatus in my mountaineering career. It was not hard or particularly scary, but if you slip and don't arrest the fall then, well, that's why there's a body bag in the medical kit. The crampons are certainly safer than skis for steep ground, as there are 24 sharp points on your feet that really grip the ice, and you have an axe in your hand to also pin yourself to the mountain and stop any slide. It really wasn't that dangerous, I just think it's good to think about these things to both appreciate the situation and manage the risk.
Anyway, the slope eased and we roped up on skis to get up the glacier, onto a saddle and down onto the wide, main glacier. Now it was a few hours slog up to the top. There were a few crevasses to negotiate including a rather wide one that narrowed to a metre or so with a strong snow bridge that allowed passage. Crossing it I could gaze down into the bright iridescent blue slot with respect, excitement and trepidation.
On reaching the top of a snowy peak, we realised we were not at the true summit, but from here the views were absolutely spectacular, straight along the Lemaire Channel, with Mt Francais nicely framed above. The tennis court sized summit and lack of breeze meant we could take a few photos and really enjoy some time there. Four of us felt a strong, purist urge to continue to the true summit which only took 10 or so extra minutes and was 50m higher!
The ski down had some amazing snow on it. Just beautiful. Then across the crevasses, onto the saddle and back down the side glacier, carefully following our previous tracks which show the pathway through the crevasses that had been tested for integrity on the way up. The final steep descent was really fun – dropping almost straight down to the icebergs and the sea. The very final, very steep bit we skied on abseil – another new experience.
That evening we sailed west to the Argentine Islands to anchor for two nights. Nick brought out his special whiskey – a reproduction of both the bottle and liquor of that taken by Shackleton on his Nimrod expedition to Antarctica in 1909, a case of which was only recently found under his hut. Rather tasty and quite special.
The next day we were staying put. I had a silly idea to traverse along a raised mooring line to the land, which worked until the boat moved and I got a wet bum,but then with a little help from the zodiac in the middle bit to stop me getting wet, I could continue my escape. Just harmless skylarking with boats and ropes. The rest of the day was spent climbing on the ice cliffs that form on the western and southern sides of Whoozle Hill on Galindez Island. The first relatively easy slope I soloed but after that I climbed on top-ropes that Stephen had set up on ice-screw anchors. Four climbs were established, involving up to 8 or so metres of vertical, with a bit of overhanging. Ice climbing involves using crampons on the feet, with most of the weight being taken by 2 sharp points at the front which you have to kick into the ice, and ice axes, which have angled p icks that are driven into the ice until they bite solidly so that you can take weight on them. So there are four points of contact with the ice, moving one at a time. As the angle of the wall steepens, it becomes exponentially harder. The vertical to slightly overhanging ice I found rather difficult. I did not fall but the forearms burned as I held the axes tightly and they took on more and more body weight, with less weight on the feet. The pros do this for hundreds of metres. I barely did 8.
It was a relatively sunny afternoon, so it was time for a swim! Certainly it is one of the must-dos in Antarctica. So, down to undies, quickly step in, dunk the whole body and head, and get rapidly out of the water. All up I was probably in the water for about 20 seconds, and overall it was not nearly as painful as I thought it would be.
Stephen planned to lead a 30m ice climb on the southern wall, so I went to photograph and observe. He put ice screws in the wall as he went up, slowly but very confidently and calmly. It was a good insight into his renowned mountaineering abilities.
Earlier we had a look around Wordie House, a British base built in 1947, now restored. Later the British built a larger, modern base nearby on Galindez Island. It is the oldest continually manned base in Antarctica. It was from here that the ozone hole was discovered. In 1996 they sold the base to the Ukrainians for one pound, which was renamed Vernadsky. After dusk we went for a visit, taking half a case of wine. They were very welcoming and friendly, giving us a quick tour before we all settled in the bar, which is well known as the best in Antarctica, looking a bit like a traditional English pub. There were darts and Russian billiards, and tastings of their homemade sugar vodka. I was feeling very tired but it was a wonderful visit.
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