On the 24th we left Port Lockroy for the journey back to trees and grass. This time we sailed between Anvers and Brabant Island, through the Melchor Islands. From here we could see the northern aspect of Mt Francais as well as the bottom half of the Iliad Glacier. The last vision of Antarctica was a thin line of black and white between fog and sea, before the fog and sea met and the Southern lands disappeared.
The passage across the Drake was as good as it gets, apparently. 20-30 knot westerly winds and a sea not too rough meant we crossed in just over 3 days – a very good time. Sleeping the first night was rather cold. The ship's hull next to my bunk on the lee side was now under almost freezing water, and the frigidity crept through.
In the rough conditions I managed to make a big patch of ANZAC biscuits. My Australian contribution to the baking.
On the 27th I awoke to the entrance of the Beagle Channel. Rolling verdant hills. The boat anchored at Estancia Harberton, what was a massive sheep station, now home to an historic homestead and a whale research institute. Lunch was on the deck in the warm sun, dressed in t-shirts and drinking white wine. Most of us went for a quick swim. Warmer than Antarctic waters but not by much! I jumped off the mast from the spreaders that are above the water. A fun 8 metre drop.
In the afternoon some of us collected local berries including the calafate, which is the more renowned Tierra de Fuego fruit. They made a fabulous berry crumble that evening. Then we had a quick look around the farm before a tour of the cetacean (whales and dolphins) institute. They collect dead cetaceans and do research on the bones. The first thing we were shown was a rotting humpback whale head slowly decomposing under a tarpaulin. A bit smelly. The tour took in a shed full of dolphin skulls and spinal columns and other various animals' remains. Interestingly gruesome. It was like a CSI episode or the garage of some serial killer. Inside the main building it was more sterile – flesh was now off the bones, and they had reconstructed the skeletons of many local animals, and we had a quick look in the lab.
On our final full day we moved the yacht to Gable Island, to a lovely anchorage off a shingle beach. After collecting a large quantity of timber, a few of us went beaver hunting. The beavers are introduced and are rather a pest as they build dams which then denigrate the environment. We found a dam and got a few good photos of one swimming about.
That evening we had the beach party. The last lamb was slowly barbequed over hot coals for about 5 hours, held up by sticks in a sculptural and engineering marvel. We sat around the fire drinking G&T with calafate berries, with a bit of Frisbee throwing and a lot of silly chatter. As it got dark the lamb was devoured with relish, eaten with calafate compote and dandelion leaf salad. After a few more red wines we saw a more charismatic side to some people's personality. Back in the boat there was also a comical display of dancing to AC/DC using poles, by the more "mature" members of the team.
So now we are approaching Ushuaia. An amazing month is rapidly coming to an end. I have spent the entire last 4 weeks with 12 wonderful people, living closely and sharing many things, especially good times, adventures and much laughter. But as we depart I can head home to 4 more special people.
