Drake Passage

We are one third of the way across the Drake Passage. It is not long before
midnight on our second day at sea. The Drake Passage is the sea between
South America and Antarctica. It is renowned as the most violent in the
world, as wind and waves circumnavigate Antarctica in a clockwise direction
without interruption. It is also known as Drake Lake when it is unexciting
and flat.

Yesterday, the pilot met us at 10am and led us out from the port for the
pricey sum of US$5000! This is the Beagle Channel, the gap narrow gap
between Tierra de Fuego and the islands that lead down to Cape Horn. It was
first sailed by The Beagle, on which Charles Darwin was the naturalist. As
we head east, on the right is Argentina, and on the left Chile - does this
count me being able to claim that I have been to Chile if I enter its
waters?

Three lamb carcasses are strapped to the back of the boat. Apparently the
cool salty sea air is a good way of preserving them. Not sure if this is
Department of Health approved.

The morning started windy but settled to a calm as we motored quite
peacefully east. There was even a group yoga session on the deck. The
wildlife spotting also started. There were Magellenic penguins, dusky and
Peale's dolphins, fur seals, rocky shags and even quite a few black-browed
albatross. We passed by rocky islets and through narrow passes, until the
channel opens up to the Southern Ocean, still splattered with large islands.
Now the sails are hauled and we get our first lessons in handling the ropes.
Around Isla Nueva we can turn to starboard and the South. The swell picked
up as the westerly prevailing winds and waves hit us, but not too bad –
yet. At dusk I retire to a pitching, noisy bed.

About 3am I awake to the engine cutting, voices and the clinking of tools.
The fanbelt on the alternator has gone but it is swiftly replaced. A little
bit of sleep before my watch at 6am has me pressing into the corner of the
bunk – the seas are picking up. On watch I spend quite a bit of time
making coffee for crew, an act made considerably harder by the craft
pitching to 45 degrees and back, often unpredictably. The swell is up to 3
metres with 30 knot winds (60km/hr).Arrr, this is the life for me! Watch
mostly consists of sitting around. The boat is on autopilot, but winds could
change or something so we must be ready to do something, or other.

The day consists of staring out to sea, making tea, eating, chatting idly,
watching the waves, reading and contemplating the realm of Neptune. I even
had an hour and a half at the wheel, riding the waves, aiming for 165
degrees on the compass, when possible, as the boat is pitched and twisted by
the waves and gusts. In the 24 hours since entering the Drake Passage we
are about a third of the way across, so hopefully we will reach the outer
Antarctic islands Thursday evening. Over the day the sea has settled to 2
metres swells, and I have to put a board on the outside of my bed to stop me
falling out in the night. The meteorological prediction is for lighter
winds.

I had a very quick chat on the satellite phone with Ros, but at $10/min, it
was very brief, and seemed to mostly concern the rat that is ramant in the
house.

So I am now half way through my 10pm-2am watch, mostly spent down at the
comms desk writing this blog. Not very watchful. There are others up in the
pilot house though, so don't worry anyone. Shouldn't be any icebergs yet
but there could be ships.

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